June 27: Riding, Landscape, People, Money

Russian Hospitality

Briefly
I have again received great kindness and hospitality. When I went to building 9 on Communistichesky Street, I didn’t find the border zone registration office, Anatoly found me. He then introduced to me Kolya who helped me get registered. In triplicate. Hours later after Tolya shepherded me on a fruitless search for a missing magnet, I am moments away from a Russian banya. First I am lucky to be able to use Kolya’s internet connection and post on this blog.

Wish you all the adventures and sunshine you hope for.

Ready to Ride

Well, the preliminaries are over the procrastination is about to be and the pedals are about to turn. The bike came out of its suitcase and was resurrected smoothly. Only missing a tiny magnet. Alas, that means no distance calculator, but I can live
with that.

My only concerns are where I will sleep each night. There are towns and hotels, but I would prefer to camp if I could find the right place.

I wrote a lot on my 3 day train ride from Moscow to here, but you will have to wait til the book comes out...
Hours and hours later.
Well, my planned 50km day turned into 95 as I never found a place I felt comfortable camping alone. Every river access point was someone could see me go down the road, and the stealthy looking places had too many bugs and not enough water. I ate 2 dollars worth of strawberries and continued riding on to the town with the hotel. Which of course was 5kms behind a headwind and then just a little further down the road into the midst of the tourist town and and two hungry hours. Later I found out they wanted$ 55 for the room! "It's a big room," they said. "I'm not a big person," I answered. "You can fit a lot of people," they said. "I am only one person," I answered. I asked if they had any 10-20$ rooms. They said no, bit I am in one Noe. The town sherriff and two of his friends overheard the commotion and saw my stressed and hungry eyes watering. Next thing you know, they gifted me this room. Which I know is more like a 39$ room. I socialized with them (cognac, not bad) over my dinner (borscht, bread and fries-pretty good). And now I must find a butilka of water and hydrate. Only difficulty tomorrow will be figuring out my sleeping arrangements again. I hope its not off and on rain again tomorrow. I'd prefer it off

Arriving at Start

June 18, 2011
Well, the train ride is coming to a close. Three nights and 2 ½ days. After the first 12 hours, I had the whole, 4-person cabin to myself. Not so conducive to friend-making. But very good for writing, sleeping and avoiding vodka excess. Generally, the train ride is about camaraderie and sharing. I still have my chocolates (well, those I managed not to eat) and the can of sardines Jude gave me as a parting gift. I can’t say I’m disappointed. I suppose the whole journey will be like this: no longer marveling in the newness of this sort of adventure, I have returned to sort of wrap things up. I doubt this means I will retire to my cat and garden, just taking day skis and after-work hikes. Itslike my bike ride last summer, b soetween Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. I enjoyed it. Yet there was something lacking. It was no longer exciting to stay the night with local families. Sure it was another glimpse into a slice of humanity. But then what? Things are only new and marvel-ous initially. Everything can be a drug. Once acclimated, more is required. I’m not sure what the more is. Maybe by the end of this trip I will come to understand.

There’s a certain nervousness I feel, sitting in my cabin for these last 45 minutes. I had a restless, thought-filled sleep. I couldn’t eat my breakfast. I am all packed. I have a plan. But now it’s time to face the music. I’ve spent a full week getting to this point, and of course, I’m still not there yet.
Shortly I will arrive in Barnaul. I will change my clocks from Moscow time and push the arrow three hours ahead to local time. I guess it’s as if I’ve traveled from Boston to Seattle- on the train! I am arriving to a cloudless sky. Time to dig out the sunscreen.

My morning task is to go to the train station ticket window, and sort through the options of getting bak to Khabarovsk 6 weeks from now. It’s hardly enough time. The trade off for leaving so late was more time with my students and more money in my pocket. Still, it’s a pity to feel so rushed. At least it helps me prioritize my time.

Once the logistics are sorted, I have to shlep my humongous suitcase, overly heavy day pack, single pannier and large plastic bag containing my front wheel to a bus stop and get myself to Biysk, about 2 ½ hours and 10 dollars down the road. From there, a local transport called a mashrutka (hear the word ‘route” in the middle?) to the town hotel. Do I go left to the “Central Hotel-” which could be more expensive but more convenient, or right to the “Flower Hotel” which might be cheaper? Maybe someone on the bus will know. My cabin conductor is from Biysk. She at least told me about the hotels and which mashrutka I needed. Too bad I didn’t make friends and get an invitation to cmp in her yard. The day is young.

shutting down

Not just my brain. I am referring to this computer. Probably the biggest adjustment I will have to make on this trip is the mac=>pc one. I am actually having more apprehension and dread about changing OS's than changing time zones, languages, culture, comfort, and money.

Once in Alaska, I went on a 12-day glacial traverse in the Chugach Mountains. On the penultimate day, when we were to descend from the ice field, the instructors (it was a class, when the UAA outdoor education program still ruled,) woke us up at 2 am for a 4;30 start. I declared that we were waking up before we even went to sleep. And tonight is the same. In four hours my nieces are graciously driving me to the airporter express, and I will begin the 17hour journey to Moscow: the first point on the line.

Too bad I am suffering a groin injury from, of all things, bowling. But it was worth it to have such a happy family celebration of my mom's 85th birthday.