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| Enterin Mongolia |
July 4th it took 6 hours to pass from Russia to Mongolia. 20 kms. It was the most inefficient border I’ve ever encountered, and anyone planning to cross it should definitely not do it on a Monday- or any day after a day it was closed. When I finally made it to the descent, it was a blizzard. No photos, but I still have a pink cheek from the sharp, stinging crystal. I arrived in Tsagaanuur and spent the night with a family. I’m glad I know how to do that. Then yesterday I had a 70km ride that started brisk and clear and beautiful. It turned into a bit of an ordeal as I lost my direction after a 2-hour push up the pass. I had to scout for about 30 minutes to determine which of the 3 roads I should take. The wrong descent could be disastrous, as this was a completely unpopulated area for miles and miles. I made the right choice and was rewarded eventually with 30kms of downhill asphalt with a tailwind. I landed in this perfectly serviceable ger camp. Tye beauty of a short trip is it doesn’t matter if I pay double to sleep in the privacy and and convenience of my own ger. five more dollars makes no difference. Of course on a year-long trip, paying double for everything could cut your trip short.
As I am anxious to get on the road (after getting breakfast and groceries for the next four town-free days) I have no inclination to write. Perhaps when I get through the other side, to Khovd, I will have more insight on how I have been handling the isolated days and nights- a road without people. If you know me, this is one of my greatest challenges. But now I will hurry off to the dining room/café to join the Kazakh film crew who are making a documentary of Chingis Khan. They speak Russian and English so I can learn some things this morning. My Mongolian is not yet up to speed.
As always, comments are appreciated.
Thanks for letting use know you crossed the border! It sounds like the whole crossing was a bit hairy.
ReplyDeletehey Sage, really enjoying your writing. This could make a nifty book one day. Flynn is lying down next to me on my bed, and the weather will not drop below 80 degrees, even at midnite. Want to give Flynn a haircut, but I know he'd be pissed. Charlie spends like 14 hours a day outside, I know he has his hide-outs, where he can safely nap, he's not that macho after all, as you know.
ReplyDeletexo didi
I love to follow your blog, Sage! When I was at Khovd in 1997, it was a declined place in the middle of nowhere. Ruins of factorys, electricity only for some hours a day, same with tab water. Here are some of my pictures: http://www.dirkpfuhl.de/mongolia/search.php?search_keywords=chowd. Maybe you can post some lines about the changes you might see there?
ReplyDeleteBorder Crossings!!!! My family and the Conners spent hours trying to cross from Botswana into Zambia after spending a week in the Okavango Delta. Brian made the mistake to question the 'guy with the stamp'. 5 hours later and with only 10 minutes till the crossing closed for the night we were kissing ass and begging. 6 tired kids and 4 adults towards the end of a 25 day safari. Sometimes it's best to just nod and smile.
ReplyDeleteCheers, Richard
is there a possibility to cross the border by bike? How did you do this? Hope that you read this and can answer because i will go this way soon.
ReplyDeletemath.kranz@gmail.com
www.matzeontour.com
No problem to cross by bike as long as you already have visas. Going east on the Chuisky Tract from Novosibirsk (M52), you stay at the border town of TashAnta. Crossing takes all day, so you start the process in the morning. The border is closed on Sundays, so Mondays are much busier and take longer. I slept indoors at the town. There was a family that opened their small house in back as a guest house. There was water on the property.There was electricity. Their sauna was too expensive.
ReplyDeleteYou should find some travelers in a vehicle that will take your bicycle in their car for you. You are not allowed to ride the12(?) kms. between the borders, and if you have to pay a taxi, it can cost 40 dollars or more. Americans don't need a visa to enter Mongolia, so that makes it quicker. There are some other nationalities that don't need visas either, but I don't know which they are.
The first little settlement on the Mongolia side (still up high) is not to be trusted. I met people (traveling in a truck) who were robbed there by kids. The were looking inside the camper truck and then grabbed a bunch of stuff and ran off and couldn't be caught. The first real town (down the pass) didn't have a hotel. it was snowing/raining and cold. I stayed inside with a family. I shared my food with them. They didn't have much to eat in the house. "Toilet" was just out on the street.
My memory is that there was not much water on the route, so bring enough for the crossing day.
Good luck!